"Competitive pressure would completely block me".

What was the first woman climbs all the peaks of the planet? Four top climbers are in the race, one of them is the Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner. In an interview with blogs online talking about their rivals, the fascination of the height, and their next goal - the K2.

 

blogs ONLINE: Mrs. Kaltenbrunner, you've finally defeated in Nepal Lhotse, the fourth highest peak on earth. However, until the third attempt - which ran better than in previous expeditions?

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner: The big difference was that this time I just concentrated on the Lhotse have. In other experiments, I have one other peaks climbed before, once the Kangchendzönga, a very high and difficult mountain. And the second time the Dhalaugiri. I also have this much patience and the best weather conditions maintained.

blogs ONLINE: What do you mean by "good weather" on 8516 meters above sea level?

Kaltenbrunner: The wind speed was only 30 to 35 km / h, the temperature at minus 26 degrees. These are very good conditions for an eight-thousand.

blogs ONLINE: The Spaniard Edurne PASABAN, in May the Kangchendzönga ascended, is now next to you the only woman, the twelve thousand Eight summit is reached. Is there a fight about who was the first woman in every 14 created?

Kaltenbrunner: For me this is not a race. Mir is true no matter who the first is. Because it really is quite different values.

blogs ONLINE: To what?

Kaltenbrunner: The nature of their large and powerful diversity to experience the indescribable views from the peaks to enjoy, that is me. And finally after a long preparation and dreams but the ambitious goal of creating its own power, which fulfilled me. Would I feel a competitive pressure, I could turn it all in the form of non-experience and record. I would be totally blocked and I would be a very big risk.

Photo: DPA www.amical.de
Video: TV blogs

blogs ONLINE: You are still missing K2 and Everest, Edurne PASABAN needs to Annapurna and Shisha Pangma defeat - who has the lighter residual program?

Kaltenbrunner: The Shisha Pangma belongs in any case, the less difficult to eight. The Annapurna is not as high, but very dangerous. This is the only peaks that I in no way wants to return. I hope that the Edurne as well through. For me, the K2 and Everest, among others by the amount of course very difficult, because I always without artificial oxygen and without carrier am.

blogs ONLINE: On both mountains, you were already in place, but had to cancel the ascents. Why are you the motivation, it has always been to try?

Kaltenbrunner: If the K2 before him, he exerts an incredibly strong fascination. This is a not going to get it done either has or knows that it simply does not work. Technically, the mountain is very demanding, but until 8200 meters, I know the route already. That makes me very confident that it will work someday - perhaps even this summer.

PERSONAL

Ralf Dujmovits / amical.de

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner was adopted on 13 December 1970 in the Austrian hospital on Pyhrn born. The nurse was certified with 23 years in 8027 meters height on the Vorgipfel of Broad Peak in Pakistan. Since the ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125 meters) in 2003, she lives solely by professional mountaineering. With twelve gene beast main peaks of the Eight-thousand-series (it only lacks K2 and Mount Everest) Kaltenbrunner is now regarded as one of the most successful extreme mountaineer Inside the world. Together with her husband and expedition partner Ralf Dujmovits she lives in Bühl / Black.

blogs ONLINE: And the Everest?

Kaltenbrunner: Because we had to cancel in 2005 because our teammate Hirotaka Takeuchi had a Hirnödem. Especially irritating to me the ascent on the north wall, there are hardly any people on the move. It always says that it is a tourist mountain. Indeed, many climbers take a stroll in the spring Vormonsunzeit on the normal routes around. But if you have a route path less guilty, this is a beautiful mountain.

blogs ONLINE: Do you know when PASABAN their 13th and 14 Ascent plans?

Kaltenbrunner: no. Once in May of Kangchendzönga come back, I still have not spoken with her. We have a few e-mails written. You must now look over the summer that their toes back into some order, and then safely back in the autumn break. During descent, it suffered frostbite and needed artificial oxygen. She had already severe frostbite on K2, then had to find parts of their toes are amputated.

blogs ONLINE: In the year 2007, together with the Spaniard defeated a summit?

Kaltenbrunner: Exactly, the Broad Peak we climbed in parallel, because we are the last meters to the highest point along Ascended. Before this spring to Kangchendzönga is broken and I Lhotse, we have taken in Kathmandu. We have a very good relationship.

blogs ONLINE: Do you know your other rivals Nives MEROI from Italy and Oh Eun-Sun of South Korea, the eleven peaks have climbed?

Kaltenbrunner: With Nives MEROI understand me very well, Sun I do not know personally - but with their style of climbing, I can start over nothing. Your objective is to support the summit with all the means to create. Since it does not matter at what height it takes oxygen and that it has many Sherpas and support from her team, from bottom to top Fixseile for them relocated. It does not take a backpack, everything is prepared. This is a very questionable style.

blogs ONLINE: competition or not - a bit of a hurry it seems so. After only two weeks traveling in Germany, now at K2.

Kaltenbrunner: I have absolutely no hurry. This time I have for years so that in the spring, I am in Nepal and in the summer in Pakistan. The K2 offers only once a year the chance to climb it, so I will use the summer season.

blogs ONLINE: Did because enough time for regeneration?

Kaltenbrunner: After Lhotse I hineingespürt in me, as I feel I have much more strength and motivation, so do I now.

blogs ONLINE: If you are 14 peaks create - then what would be the next challenge?

Kaltenbrunner: Because like I have not even thought off. It can go fast, but it can also take years. Hans Kammerlander has four starts for K2 needed. I hope not, for me that it will last as long. Then there are some remote routes to lower mountains, which I gladly share with my husband would climb. I will certainly return year after year break - if you look at the mountain climbing has begun, which allows for a lifetime is no longer happening.

14 peaks: the highest mountains in the world

Name
  Height
  Country
  First ascent

Mount Everest
  8848 meters
  Tibet, Nepal
29.05.1953

K2
  8611 meters
  China, Pakistan
31.07.1954

Kangchendzönga
  8586 meters
  India, Nepal
25.05.1955

Lhotse
  8516 meters
  Tibet, Nepal
18.05.1956

Makalu
  8485 meters
  Tibet, Nepal
15.05.1955

Cho Oyu
  8188 meters
  Tibet, Nepal
19.10.1954

Dhaulagiri I
  8167 meters
  Nepal
13.05.1960

Manaslu
  8163 meters
  Nepal
09.05.1956

Nanga Parbat
  8125 meters
  Pakistan
03.07.1953

Annapurna
  8091 meters
  Nepal
03.06.1950

Hidden Peak
  8080 meters
  Tibet, Pakistan
05.07.1958

Broad Peak
  8051 meters
  Tibet, Pakistan
09.06.1957

Gasherbrum II
  8034 meters
  Tibet, Pakistan
07.07.1956

Shisha Pangma
  8027 meters
  Tibet
02.05.1964